Waimea Waves

WAIMEA WAVES

If you want to ride the ultimate wave, you have to
be willing to pay the ultimate price. -- Mark Foo

I'm sitting at the lineup on my Gun.
These are just like the waves at Malibu,
Only much bigger! I am stoked! "Have fun,"
She said, "your surfer girl is watching you."
The rescue helicopter flies around
Above the lifeguards on jet skis watching, watching.
The ancient Sky and Sun, the ancient Ground,
The surf is roaring. Wind is whispering, whispering.
The set is almost here. I thought I heard
Whispering, whispering, "You don't have what it takes."
I let the first two waves go by. The third?
I plunged both legs straight down--applied the brakes.
Hey Dude with the big-wave surfboard by Bear,
How's Waimea? You'd have to be there!